Friday, December 28, 2012

Da Rosa, Paris

Post Barcelona tapas withdrawal can be a subtle, compelling and painfully motivating force. Complicated even more so if you live in the Sahara of good tapas joints that is the city of Paris. Luckily Da Rosa, everyone's favorite left bank epicerie cum tapas bar, has a new shop.

Tucked away in a corner of the sedate rue du Mont Thabor, Da Rosa is located in the former cutting edge fashion boutique Maria Luisa. The chic new Jacques Garcia designed space, all red velvet and exposed brick, has tables and a counter top serving the same top quality Spanish, Italian and Portuguese specialties that put them on the Parisian map (think Iberico ham and Italian and Spanish cheeses, Mediterran wines, reinvented clubs). As they're open from 11am-11pm, 7/7 non stop, this is good news for people who want a real option for quality eats in an area where apart from the traditional French opening hours of lunch and dinner, there is very little choice.

Da Rosa
7 rue Rouget de l'Isle (rue du Mont Thabor) , 75001 Paris

Wednesday, December 12, 2012

La Pascade

Of course everybody's writing about it, but I thought the new offering from two star Michelin chef Alexandre Bourdas deserved a mention. This woodsy little place, the subject of much foodie buzz and rumor in past months, has nothing to do with the cutting edge cuisine of Bourdas' Honfleur based Sa Qua Na or indeed to do with anything. The small, ruggedly modern dining room, replete with half open kitchen, communal table and funky utensil drawers, serves up pascades, something like a crepe with raised edges, made of freshly beaten eggs and flour, a dish from the Aveyron region not found much in Paris. The interesting thing here is that Bourdas not only resuscitates a little known regional dish, but also manages to use it as a vehicle for interesting recipes such as lamb ragout with pok choi,  fromage blanc and Vietnamese cardamom and monkfish with spinach, lime, coriander, loveage and coconut emulsion. Wines are a bit too pricey, although the wine brewed and drunk like a beer was refreshing enough to merit a second one. Last but certainly not least,  the most delightful and delicate dish, not on the menu Margaux Johnston.

La Pascade
14 rue Daunou, 75001 Paris