Da Mimmo

"A little corner of Naples in the center of Paris" is what they say - I'd heard it was an Italo-starfuck heaven (Bellucci et al) in the middle of the congested boulevard Magenta, probably one of my least favorite streets in the City of Lights. The restaurant was mostly empty except for a few families/old people/locals, and I couldn't imagine any of them ponying up 40€ for the truffles tagllione pasta, or any of the other overpriced specialities (spaghetti volgole for 25€?? or a simple tomato spaghetti for 19€...) .The starter was forgettable, a 17.50€ beef carpaccio with too much oil, lemon, and not enough parmesan, although the beef quality was relatively decent. I reckon most people come for the pizza. Perfectly cooked by an obese chef who did his rounds after the shift, kissing babies, shaking hands.... the Mimmo with pork shoulder, mozza, parmesan, egg and peppers was as good as it gets in Paris, and the rosé wine at 8€ a 50cl pitcher more than reasonable.