The Coolest Place In Paris Today

Attended the opening of the new Paris art center, Le 104. Streams of people of all type and persuasion (including the entire art student population of the City of Lights) made the pilgrimage from the Stalingrad metro, past African epiceries, North African tea houses and ethnic hair salons to the former municipal funeral home now turned biggest art center in Europe. The center"s restaurant, an ephemeral affair located in the former basement stables , although serving substandard hot dogs, ham and cheese sandwiches, tepid lasagna and a small selection of drinks and beer, was actually today the hottest place to eat in the city, so much buzz there was in the air. Even along the rue d'Aubervilliers, the normally skanky bars and cafés, thronged with a new clientelle, on their way to or from the 104. Chairs of all size and form made makeshift terraces to satisy the demand. It's rare to have the opportunity to see instant gentrification in action.