Thursday, November 17, 2011


Paris is such a pleasant place to eat recently, and it seems every week some hot new table is opening, in a cool gentrifying neighborhood, with a world faring chef doing inexpensive and exciting food. (Le Galopin, Au Passage are two perfect examples) This is certainly the case with L'Office, in a part of the 9th , a sort of multicultural no mans land between the Gare du Nord train station and Galeries Lafayette, in a quarter that counts a diverse local population (African hairdressers and traditional Jewish commerce galore)  chain noodle restaurants, various bars and brasseries that merit being closed long ago, and L'Office, a non descript storefront offering top notch cooking. The owner, Charles Compagnon, who funnily enough I knew when he was running the very convenient Bar George V, teamed up with Del Posto-trained American chef Kevin O'Donnell and the result is the kind of bistro you wish was just downstairs.

On the 24€ three course menu was a tender piece of falling apart pork belly with a tomato paste and fried egg. C. had a velouté of coco beans topped with a piece of toast on which were placed thinly sliced pieces of lardo di colonnata , followed by sous vide cooked chicken with girolles mushrooms and an airy, foamy celery root purée. The pot au pen was full of delectable veal replacing the beef, with crunchy celery. Dessert was ok cheese and a decent, dense chocolate cake with banana ice cream. Bread was a little regrettable, but I think they ran out of the good stuff we had at the beginning of the meal.

Wines were predictably, natural and organic from a pretty well chosen list, with glasses of Jacky Blot et co. at around 6€.

This place is a real culinary snapshot of what's going on in Paris at the moment. Love it.

3 rue Richer, 75009 Paris
+33 1 47 70 67 31 


LILIBOX said...

The"new" Office is a good value!
Charles Compagnon is very nice and friendly. The food is simple but i appreciate the very fresh products also the bread from the bakery "Le Grenier à Pain".
The desserts are just a little bit "rustic" ... like comfort food.
A judicious choice of wine, not too organic, not too natural with a good price.
An adress to keep and share !

Forest said...

haven't been there or tried the food, but just from looking at the pics would say you're spot on with the culinary snapshot comment.

Forest said...

30 seconds after commenting I realized there's some redundancy in my comment - obviously if i haven't been there I haven't tried the food so no need to say both of those, but you get the drift, i imagine.

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