Passage 53 - menu degustation

Last night took the occasion to try out the new degustation menu at one of my favourite tables. For those of you who have been living in a cave for the last few months, the Passage 53 is one of Paris' most interesting new restaurants: located in the city's oldest covered passageway, run by Guillaume (whose father-in-law is France's most famous and coveted butcher de luxe, Hugo Desnoyer), and orchestrated by Mr. Sato, former chef of Paris' only Michelin-starred Japanese, Aida. (who also did a stint at the three-star Astrance). The restaurant was boiling inside, so luckily we had a table on the terrace, where we enjoyed nine dishes from the chef's surprise menu, which at 60€ is reasonable and worth the detour.


Broccoli emulsion with crunchy broccoli bits


Veal tartar from Hugo Desnoyer on a bed of Gillardeau oysters


Grilled calamari with cabbage and cauliflower cream


Foie gras with strawberries


Cod with white radish cream


Turbot


Veal filet with noirmoutier potatoes and mushrooms


Rhubarb jelly with rhubarb cubes


Green tea sorbet with red fruit and puffed rice

Passage 53

Veal medallions with mashed potatoes

Very decent steak tartar (not as good as Fines Gueles, tasty fries though)

Faux filet with roast potatos (Desnoyer meat, cut in strips, cooked and seasoned perfectly and pretty damn near perfect)




A kind of hipper, more inspired Glou, this little lounge/bistro in Paris' oldest covered passageway has a lot of promise. Good products (Desnoyer meat, excellent Jabugo) , Mr. Sato, a chef trained at the only one star Japanese in the city, friendly service and easy prices. And their cred is snowballing in the Paris foodie blogosphere. Next Figaroscope 2/3 star? Only critique: the decor, which is neither "lounge" nor "bistro".

53 passage des Panoramas, 75002
+33 1 42 33 04 35

My contribution to Monocle's Quality of Life Survey 2008