Rech Ducassification - Je vous offre un ver?

I debated with myself on whether to write up my recent lunch at the 1925 fish and seafood bistro, Rech. Normally I wouldn't be caught dead in this gastronomic dead zone (with the exception of maybe Gourmet des Ternes or Fréderic Simonin, both addresses I shunned for no good reason, other than that I'd never been to Rech). I was thinking of winter, seafood, chilled white, I was hungry, and stuck in the hinterland that surrounds the place des Ternes. Rech it was.

My lunch partner's starter of mussel and saffron soup was decent enough, but my bland autumn vegetable "cook pot" came with a side order of worm. Yes, you heard me right. The attitude of the staff was very "har har har, more protein for you". Nice. It happens I know.

When I the sommelier asked what I'd like to drink and I replied "I trust you", his reply (with no humor intended, I'm sure) was: "Tant pis pour vous". I believed him when a little later he knocked my 17€ glass of Condrieu across the table, smashing the glass in two, whisking away the pieces (sans apology). He replaced the glass and we continued on with a tasty baby squid tagliatelli with fresh cepes and parmesan, and a regrettable (especially at 38€) lobster macaroni which was overpowered by something or other I ceased to care about.

Their "famous" camembert was fine. The 40 minute wait for the bill afterwards, however, was not, as apparently the entire staff of the restaurant, except the manager had vacated the premises and forgotten us upstairs.

Note to self: file somewhere between "very disappointed" and "never again". Especially, especially at 100€ a head.

 Mussel and saffron soup

 Baby squid "tagliatelli" with cepes

Lobster macaroni

A au Kei - Bangin' with flavor !

I've been intrigued by this new table for quite some time: a Japanese former Alain Ducasse second at the Plaza with seven years under his hat, the former Gerard Besson space, now a minimalist zone serving studious, classic and good looking French gourmet cuisine.

All well and good. I'm not sure I can be totally impartial to my excellent experience here, as this drunch (c) was enlightened by the presence of a Maltese/Australian foodie who made me lose my concentration and normal common sense. I remember wine, laughter, humorous blunders and tomfoolery, and an interminable afternoon happily shared with a likeminded friend.

Alain Ducasse

It's hard to say no when (arguably) the world's best chef invites you to test the cuisine of his flagship restaurant. Despite the fact that I'm very critical of all these super-chefs opening global franchises, microwave "gourmet" food and consult from everything from cruise ships to chips, Ducasse's gastro hit all the right notes. Good humored impeccable service (yes, they noticed I eat left handed), great wines (can't complain when you're plied by 2005 Riesling Grand Cru, 2004 Chablis, 2001 Chateauneuf-du-Pape and an insane Pineau des Charentes....


Patrick Jouin "exploded" chandelier


Live langoustines, soon to become...


...Formerly live langoustines ...topped with Iranian Oscietre caviar and accompanied by a ginger broth


Scallops with caramelized endives and black truffle


Line caught sea bass with "prébelle" green asparagus, peas and fevettes


Pithiviers game pie with (copious) black truffle, foie gras a Périgueux sauce


I've heard of truffled salads before, but this is ridiculous! A salad inside a package of shaved black truffle


Fresh forest picked strawberries with a coconut sablé and ice cream