Jarrasse Neuilly

Although I know Rostang well, having had the chance to spend five hours one lunch in his eponymous gastro, his Neuilly fish restaurant has always been a little off my radar, despite its reputed excellence, good figaroscope reviews, and positive comments in the blogosphere. Last night's dinner was superb. The décor is warm and modern, with lots of reds, various trinkets picked up at the flea market (check out the wooden lockers from turn-of-the-century Banque de France ), and a welcoming friendly and professional staff. The food was outstanding, from the truffle-covered scallops, stacked, sushi-style, on top of algae wrapped potatoes, and the grilled turbotine (1 kg!) , which was, in every way, perfect, from the firm flesh of the fish to the expert cooking and delicious side of beurre blanc. Also of note was the (although very classic) Soufflé Grand Marnier. Probably the most interesting classic fish restaurant opened in the Paris region for awhile (and a good bet seeing the retrograding of Marius et Janette and La Marée)