Rose Bakery

I know this British-inspired epicerie/brunch place is hardly under the radar anymore, but it still remains my favourite place in the Montmartre area to chill with a drink and plate of scrambled eggs. They didn't spend too much on the deco, and they don't have any English beer (why Asahi only?), but the food is good, bio, not expensive, and they have some hot female waitstaff and customers, and nice takeout cakes.






Scrambled Eggs with Cheese Scone

Jarrasse Neuilly - GOGO review

Canal Saint Martin SKANK

Bet all those tourists on the Canauxrama cruise this afternoon got a great impression of Paris seeing the dozens of tents, makeshift housing, rabid dogs, pesky panhandlers and floating garbage lining the trendy, scenic canal. Bravo to whatever bleeding heart foundation that's behind this. All the local businesspeople thank you kindly for the sudden (and prolonged) 30-40 percent loss in business, and the local Sunday, canal-gazing families thank you for the vagrants pissing on every square meter of available ground surface. Particular kudos for the nearly vertical rise in the local illicit drug trade, violence in the trendy bars and cafés, and general panoramic eyesore.


Tents


Floating rubbish

Jarrasse Neuilly

Although I know Rostang well, having had the chance to spend five hours one lunch in his eponymous gastro, his Neuilly fish restaurant has always been a little off my radar, despite its reputed excellence, good figaroscope reviews, and positive comments in the blogosphere. Last night's dinner was superb. The décor is warm and modern, with lots of reds, various trinkets picked up at the flea market (check out the wooden lockers from turn-of-the-century Banque de France ), and a welcoming friendly and professional staff. The food was outstanding, from the truffle-covered scallops, stacked, sushi-style, on top of algae wrapped potatoes, and the grilled turbotine (1 kg!) , which was, in every way, perfect, from the firm flesh of the fish to the expert cooking and delicious side of beurre blanc. Also of note was the (although very classic) Soufflé Grand Marnier. Probably the most interesting classic fish restaurant opened in the Paris region for awhile (and a good bet seeing the retrograding of Marius et Janette and La Marée)

Maria Luisa pizzeria Paris

Looking for authentic Napolitan style pizza in Paris? This is the best place I've found so far -- located behind the Hopital Saint Louis, and a stone's throw from the Canal Saint Martin, this small, very bobo-friendly place (but don't let that dissuade you from coming!...) , located on a corner between two streets doesn't have much in the way of design going for it, prefering the minimalist, we haven't decided how to decorate it yet vibe, but does offer friendly service, mucho eye-candy, and good pizza at pretty reasonable prices. Wine is cheap and drinkable, but nothing to write home about...


Pizza bianco with mozzarella, bresaola, roquette, cherry tomatoes and parmesan


Superb caramel panacotta

In defense of British food

http://www.seriouseats.com/2007/02/in-defence-of-british-food.html

Le Saut du Loup - Gogo review

Le Saut du Loup (Musée des Arts Déco)

Recently opened, Le Saut du Loup (name refering to an architectural term for a transparency separating an interior from an exterior, although maintaining a harmony between the two - ie, the restaurant and the Tuilleries gardens) , is the hottest museum restaurant in Paris. The chef, Pascal Bernier, cut his teeth at Lasserre, the formely one-star Clovis , and then worked as a consultant for the likes of the Atelier de Renault. The upper dining room is by far the best place to eat, with lots of black, white and reflective and transparent surfaces. The cuisine is in the traditional/modern vein, and although a little pricey, was worth it for an interesting lunch.


Amuse bouche of crème de topinambour (cream of Jerusalem artichokes)


Small red peppers, stuffed with tuna fillet and parmesan cheese


Crème de carrot avec "mouillette" de cumin (Carrot cream soup with cumin dipping breadstick


Pasta with ham and parmesan cream sauce


Coquilles Saint Jacques with Lentilles


Excellent "cornet" de frites


"Plaisir intense", mango and cocont ice cream with whipped cream and raspberry coulis

and funky square toilets....!



Le Saut du Loup
107, rue de Rivoli Paris 1er
Telephone: + 33 1 42 25 49 55
www.lesautduloup.com

Castro Maison

Michelin Paris Red Guide/Guide Rouge 2007 final results!!

Here are the final results for the Michelin Guide Rouge 2007 ( which comes out February 28th in stores)

New Three Stars

Yannick Alléno – Le Meurice
Frédéric Anton – Pré Catelan
Pascal Barbot – L’Astrance
Jacques Lameloise – Lameloise à Chagny
Anne-Sophie Pic – Pic à Valence

New Two Stars

Le Clos de Sens à Annecy
La Villa à Calvi
Nicolas Le Bec à Lyon
Joel Robuchon Montre-Carlo
Alexandre à Nimes
Les Elysées à Paris
Les Cèdres à Romans-sur-Isère

New One Stars in Paris

Auguste
Les Fables de la Fontaine
Dominique Bouchet
Les Muses
Bath’s

Le Relais d'Auteuil and Laurent in Paris were two of seven establishments to be demoted from two to one star.

Also kudos to the guide for demoting overblown, overexpensive and user unfriendly restaurants:

The Jules Verne (yes!) and Marius et Janette lost their star, as did Chen, Sormani, Caffè Minotti, Le Clovis, La Luna, La Marée, Le W, Relais de Sevres and Tang.

In an interview with the Michelin guide director, Jean-Luc Naret, he mentions (refering to the demotion from three to two stars of Le Cinq and Taillevent) , "There are two magnificent Parisian restaurants, two institutions. Unfortunately, the lack of regularity this year made us take this decision. It's not the talent of the chef(s) that are to blame! It's just the irregularity! Stars can be recovered very quickly"

Urbane Restaurant Paris Gogo review

Urbane Restaurant Paris

The jury's still out on this 40-seater néo-bistro not far from the Canal Saint Martin, behind the up-and-coming Hopital Saint Louis district (judging from the amount of lofts and internet cafés scattered around the area..). The space is nice enough in a shabby-chic/lofty sort of way. Audrey, the Irish-born owner with her business partner Olivier, the chef (who did stints at Darozze and Choukroun's establishments) are very nice. But nice doesn't a quality bistro make, and they still need a little time to find their wings.

The 29€ (entrée/plat/dessert) menu was without great surprise, but there were spots of talent and interest: Saint Jacques with a rosepetal/balsamic reduction, green curry sauce and pilaf rice was delicious,the mi-chaud foie gras with Sechuan pepper was pretty classic, but the accompanying aromatic salad was great, fresh and invigorating on the palate, the aller-retour of tuna with an innocuous, tasteless green salsa sauce, excellent "spuds" with olive oil, was a good sized portion of well seared fish, and the brownie with pain d'epices ice cream (why did I take a brownie in Paris??) was without interest, although my dining partners frangipane "sucettes" was tasty.

Resumé: a little far to go when other excellent establishments offer better value for the price.

But, a few more months, and they might have a few surprises for us when chef Olivier starts to find his way.

La Cantine de Quentin Gogo

Paris Food Skank (shame on Cojean)

Don't get me wrong - I like Cojean as much as any self-respecting foodie , but when passing by their Clément Marot outlet the other night and seeing their rubbish bins (full, I might add) in the middle of their shop, I don't think I'll be doing any takeout there for awhile...

La Cantine de Quentin

This small cave a manger, probably the best in this recent new, bistronomic classification which started with the Verre Volé, continued through Les Papilles , might well (for the moment, anyway) end here. Two former Guy Savoy employees, lots of determination and , surtout, generosity, makes La Cantine de Quentin one of the most interesting opening of the last few months. Quentin, the visionary, and Johann, a former chef at Savoy's one star Chiberta , came together and created this space with their own bare hands in one month. Like the Verre Volé, the Cantine is a boutique selling bonbons, honey, jams , sauces, sausages and charcuteries, wine , juices , and dozens of other handpicked artisanal gourmandises. The cuisine is something else. A weekly menu is offered at 14 Euros (starter and main dish), and on the weekends, there is either an a la carte menu , starters from 6 to 8 Euros, main dishes from 12-14 Euros, and desserts around 6-8 Euros. Today we tried an assiette of charcuterie, and a millefeuille of beetroot with crab and balsamic vinegar. Main dish of crawfish risotto, and an amazing "tarte tatin" with maigret de canard, and thym, rosemary whipped cream, and, again , an amazing dessert of "bonbon" of dates, dipped in whipped cream. The 8 Euro pichet (50cl) of Cote de Rhone was excellent value.


Millefeuille of beetroot and crab with balsamic vinegar


"Tarte Tatin"


Crawfish Risotto


Date "bonbons"



La Cantine de Quentin
52, rue Bichat 75010
Paris
Telephone: 01 42 04 40 32

Michelin Paris Red Guide 2007/ Guide Rouge 2007

Here's the first look at the results coming out in the next Michelin Guide Rouge...

Le Cinq (Four Seasons Hotel George V) and Taillevent (unmolested by the guide for more than thirty years...) go from three to two, and Astrance, Le Meurice,Pre Catelan and Helene Darroze (not sure yet, cryptic, perhaps not) get three stars, with Constant's Les Fables de la Fontaine getting one star. Pic looks like the first woman chef to get three stars after Darroze..

Marc Meneau went bankrupt...

http://www.lefigaro.fr/france/20070118.FIG000000015_fuites_au_michelin_la_valse_des_etoiles.html

Unico restaurant Paris

After winning a Fooding award this year, and stellar Figaroscope reviews (by the same people, Cammas & Co. FYI) , this seems to be the hot table of the moment. An interesting concept: a kitchy 1970's family-style butcher shop (which according to the locals dining next dooor to us was pretty crap anyway) , transformed by two Argentinian architects (the owners and longtime Parisian transplants) into a contemporary design version of a kitchy 1970's butcher shop, with crowded tables, a redesigned Norman Foster table d'hote, an Argentinian chef, servers, wines, beef, even a charcoal-burning stove from over there. Happily, the restaurant lives up to the reviews. The empanadas (small, pasty-like pies filled with hand-cut beef strips) were superb, as was the lomo, which was served with roasted potatoes, and a trio of sauces (chilichura the best). The dulce de leche, again, was excellent. Please excuse the following poor quality photos .











I love the picture of our fellow diner relaxing in delight after his meal.

Unico
15 rue Paul Bert, 75011
01.43.67.68.08

Costes take over mayonnaise world!

Shocking news!

Paris' famous Costes family of restaurateurs has taken over the world of cool hotels, bar/ restaurants, and even lounge music apparently with the single aim of cornering the world market on luxury mayonnaise!

Chez Michel

Perfect French comfort food in the quiet shadow of a church near the Gare du Nord. Their 30 Euro menu is the best prix-fixe in Paris. Starter of terrine of hare with foie gras and cacao, main of pot au feu of pigeon breast with foie gras, black truffles, with carrots, brussel sprouts and root vegetables, finished off with their famous Kouign Annan, a kind of galette des rois with heaps of caramel and butter. Apologies (again) for the crap photo quality.

Condé Nast Shit List 2006 (Paris)

http://www.concierge.com/bestof/hotlist/2006/tables/bound/

Further proof that CNT has no idea what they are talking about in terms of "hot tables" (in Paris anyway)

I mean, who writes this shit for them?!!?

Hire me for chrissakes!

PS, their noting of Gaya and Le Comptoir are just (however late in the game they may be on gastronomic rumours..)

White Truffle Oil and Parmesan Fries

At the Bristol Lounge in the Four Seasons Boston. Great side of sour cream with lemon sauce, but god knows why they coupled it with Heinz ketchup...

Bath's (25 rue Bayen)

New Printemps Restaurant

The resto, underneath a 1923 circa Art Nouveau cupola has had a major redesign, with a central, circular bar, above which a massive inflated globe hangs, with projected digital images on its surface. The chef, from the Hotel Saint James does a cuisine which was better than I expected: mi-cuit salmon, veal chop with a cheesy sauce and celery purée, and a rather nasty-looking "gaspacho" of fruit with green tea sorbet, which tasted a lot better than it looked!